Update 1/31/2012: As MegaUpload was taken down, I moved the font zip to mintywhite servers (and got by the 20 MB file limit.) Please only download if you want a ton of fonts. The file is quite large (79.3 MB) but hopefully it’s quite convenient (plus, all the applicable licenses and credit is included for the authors that worked so hard on these fonts.)

Many readers have asked me to compile all the fonts, from this website, into one megapack. Today, James, a reader of Windows Guides gave me the push I’ve needed and I put them all together.

Download the Megapack

Download Font Mega Pack

Extract the Megapack to Your Hard Drive

To extract this zip files either double click on it or, while you’re at it, start using a great zip tool like 7-Zip. Right click the file and click 7-Zip > Extract Here.

How to Install Fonts

If you are making a PowerPoint presentation, poster, graphic, or anything that requires typography, you may find some of these fonts useful. There many free fonts out there but it is often hard to find good ones as there is so much choice and so many fonts are not very high quality. In this collections, I’ve compiled the best free fonts out there and provided direct download links to them so you can start using them straight away. If you are unsure of how to install a font, learn here.

More Fonts

Check out more font collections on Mintywhite.com.

Preview Fonts

This is a small representation of the fonts available:

28 Days Later

Concielian

Enchanted Prairie Dog

Judas

Somes Style

Benny Blanco

Blind Melon

Crackdown

Degrassi

Eddie

Oil

Distorted and Scratchy

Docteur Atomic

Hollywood Hills

Hard Rock

Hotel Coral Essex

You Are Loved

Movie Fonts

Fontin Sans

Fertigo Pro

Brand Name Fonts

TV Shows

Video Game Fonts

Music Band Fonts

Bulldozer

Cheap Stealer

Manabu

Nofutur

Paperclip

Rugged Type

Rzrarti

Epoxy History

Jellyka Castles Queen

Karabine

Marcelle

Bleeding Cowboys

FFF Tusj

Green Pillow

alba

Base 02

Negotiate

Splinter 2

Core

Zerogene

Retro Rock Poster

My Turtle

Vandalism

WC Wunderbach Mix BTA

Detroit Ghetto

Octin Spraypaint

Chocolat Bleu

Download Font Mega Pack

The short answer

The short answer is (in the words of Aerosmith): Hotspot is like Ad-Hoc, but not quite. Okay Aerosmith never said it like that, but if you know which song I’m referring too, leave your answer in the comment. HotSpot and Ad-Hoc can both be used to share your internet connection, and in some respect they are two of the same. They differ in what they are intended for.

The slightly longer answer

First, let me try to define what an Ad-Hoc and a HotSpot is:

HotSpot

Generally speaking, a HotSpot is what you are using when accessing Internet when you’re at a Café or a Hotel. Usually you need a username and/or password to log on through a web-Portal to be able to connect to the Internet.  HotSpot requires a Wi-Fi connection and works like your Wi-Fi Network at home. The HotSpot will normally only allow you to use the Internet. Not interact with other computers or gadgets using the same HotSpot.

Ad-Hoc

The Ad-Hoc is a wireless network without the need of a big Server, or a Router. A Router is preferable the easiest way to go, but you are able to do without. Ad-Hoc rely on each computers Wi-Fi Card to set up and Connect to other computers through one of the other, which for the sake of argument, is the Server (or main Computer). If this Computer has a Wireless Internet (USB modem etc.) then the Ad-Hoc Network can share the Internet Connection as well.

If you have multiple computers in your household, and all are running Windows 7, you might be using an Ad-Hoc Network already, otherwise known as HomeGroup.  The Ad-Hoc gives you much of the same functionality you would come to expect from a wired network, like Printer- and Filesharing.

I did promise an answer to my choice of title

The answer is simple. The main purpose of the article in mind, was to let other computers share your internet Connection. Not dealing with all the hassle with security, sharing, permissions etc. Though arguably you do the same as setting up an Ad-Hoc Network, you are only giving away Internet Access. And, besides, Rich would have a handful of 404 errors to handle If I were to change it now.

Tethering

Tethering is a word that began surfacing around 2009 when SmartPhones started appearing. In short, Tethering is using your phone (or other device) as an Internet Modem through an USB-Cable, Bluetooth or Wi-Fi Connection. Allowing your Laptop to connect to the Internet, no matter where you are. With 3G (and 4G) standards, this is almost as good as using a Wireless Internet, but will in the long run cost your more. But for that one desperate moment when you really need Internet – well, then that is a great solution.

Be aware that some Internet providers require you to sign up for an extra Tethering Service if you want to connect more than one device to their service.

The technique is by far new, and has been available before the world even knew what a SmartPhone is. But back then, it was called: “Using your Cellphone as modem” or something similar.

The different Location Settings allow or block certain network features or functions.  The general rule as Microsoft tells it is that if you know every computer (and user) on the network, use the Home Network Setting, if not choose one of the other.  But you may have wondered what are the differences between Home, Work and Public Network Settings, and which network features are switched on or off?

Simply put, the Location Settings affect whether or not a computer can be seen and see other computers on the network.

Public Location

It should be a well-known fact by now that connecting to a public (or unsecured) network put your computer at risk. Risk from being compromised in some way or other, like hacking, spyware etc. Therefore when connection to a Public Location, Windows will turn off Network discovery, which will hide you from the other users on the network. It will turn off Network Sharing Features (files, folders, printers etc.) and of course  disabling the HomeGroup Feature.

As long as you don’t need to share anything on your computer with other computers on your network, then this is the most secure Location Setting you can use, to protect your computer and your privacy.

Work Location Vs Home Location

At work you do know most of the computers and users, and you do need to connect to the office Printer, scanner, server and whatnot. But, you do not need to share private information. So the big difference between Home and Work Location is the ability to use the HomeGroup Functionality. HomeGroup (as you well know) are the home version of a Workgroup. It makes it easier to share your files, folders, printers etc. with everyone else connected to the network, but at the same time it can also make you more vulnerable to other prying eyes.

Network Location Overview

*Depending on Windows Version

Change Location

The fix is easy if you have chosen the wrong Network Location.

1. Open the Network and Sharing Center by Right Clicking the Network icon in your Taskbar.
2. Click on the current Location Setting to display the Network Location Settings Window.
3. Choose your new Location.

[Update 2]

A reader named Bjoler has offered up 19 invitations. Leave your email in the reply below. Thanks Bjoler, you’re an upstanding Norwegian (such as myself) :-)

[Update] 30 invitations delivered!
If you didn’t get one you may still request one over at spotify.com.

Great news for all of you US citizens that wish to try the newly released US version of Spotify. I have several invites to the Totally free (with some limitations) edition of Spotify.

Wonder what Spotify is?
Read more about it here, and here!

Send your request to competition@mintywhite.com before monday, July 25th and I’ll hand out 10 invites to Spotify beta release. This is a totally free membership which you may keep for as long as you like. You may also at any time upgrade it to a paid account starting at 4,99 USD a month. Write “Spotify Invite” in the subject line.

If you do not receive word from me within Wednesday, July 27th, register your invite request at: http://www.spotify.com/us/hello-america/

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This new tool is NOT a new antivirus or malware detector, but a tool to use once the problem is a fact. So naturally I would advice you to download it now, and keep it on a flash drive, or a CD. The only problem I foresee is to remember where that CD was put or on which usb pen you stored it.

In addition to help solve boot problems, Microsoft also promise that this new tool can be used to solve problems regarding your current anti-virus program whether it cannot be installed or that windows cannot detect it.

What it does

The Microsoft Standalone System Sweeper Tool first scans your boot sector for any corrupted files or settings. It then scans your system for any known malware or infections.

64 bit and 32 bit

Microsoft Standalone System Sweeper Tool comes in both flavours (32 and 64 bit) and supports XP (SP3), Vista and 7.
Get more information here: http://connect.microsoft.com/systemsweeper

Download

Download 32 Bit Version

Download 64 Bit Version

[disclaimer] This guide is written using Photoshop, but there are several other programs available with the same capabilities as described here (like Paint.net). This guide will not focus on how to create photos for use on the web where pictures need to be downsized and data removed.

To be able to resize a photo (making it larger or smaller) without removing data you need to know what a digital photo is and you will also need to know what DPI is and how it works.  So let’s start with that.

BitMap Image

All photos stored on your computer are what we can call  Bitmap images. The Bitmap is simply explained a grid (or a mesh) that we fill with pixels (or dots) of various colors. Up close you will only see colorful pixels but zoomed out you will perceive it as a photo. A little trick of the eye as it were. And this is where the DPI comes in.

DPI – Dots Per Inch

As you may know, an image has two dimensions (height and width) but there is also a third one; called DPI (Dots Per Inch). The DPI is what tells you how much information is stored in your photo. The more pixels (or dots) we are able to squeeze into our photo, the more information we store and the larger the file. We measure this in inches.

DPI, Simplified

Lets break this down a bit. Lets say you’re at a stadium where each row is a line in your photo. Each person is a pixel. The more people you can squeeze into each row, the more people will get to see the match. Hence, the more pixels you can squeeze into an inch, the more information is stored in the photograph, and the better it will look.

Take a look at the illustration above that demonstrates the difference between 300 DPI and 72 DPI.

Different DPI = Different usage

Your monitor uses a DPI of 72 or 96, which plainly speaking means, 72 (or 96) pixels spread out on an inch long line. A newspaper will traditionally use a DPI of about 150 DPI, and a magazine will normally have a setting of 300 DPI. High Resolution Photos can use from 600 DPI and up to the thousands. Meaning that what you are going to use the photo for will decide how large DPI you should use. Some Printers will only print a DPI up to 600 so anything above that will just be a waste of space.

Also know that the larger the DPI, the more hard drive space and memory the photo will consume.

Scaling using DPI

We may convert the image physical size (height and width) to DPI and vice versa. Any normal digital camera will use a DPI-setting of 72 (or 96), making the images large in size. My camera takes pictures that are about 3000×2000 pixels with a DPI of 72, which is equal to 105×70 cm. Which of course is way to large to print.

If I were to just strip off the excessive data I would be stuck with a pixellated, unsharp photo. Instead I want to keep all the information, while still be able to print High-Res photos on my Photo paper. This is where I open my photo in Photoshop (but by all means use Paint.net or similar).

• Scaling the photo down to 40 x 30 will give me a DPI of 177 DPI
• Scaling the photo down to 15×10 cm  gives me a DPI of 500 DPI

The great thing about this kind of scaling is that should I decide to print this image in a larger format later I’m still able. Because no data is removed only stacked together tighter, there is no loss in data or image quality. That being said, if you want to double the image size (from 40×30 cm to 80×60) the image will not be sharp to look at up close, but zoomed out it will be. Take a closer look at a large poster next time you walk by it, up close you will see the pixels, but from a far …

In Photoshop

In Photoshop you are able to resize an image and save it without the loss of data. If you are using another program try not to save the changes after scaling.

1. Open your photo
2. Choose Image Size from the Image Menu
3. To Resize an image using the DPI information, uncheck “Resample Image”
4. Reduce the print size by entering a new width or height (to suit your Photo paper).

In Paint.Net

If you decide to use paint.net, be advised that if you are not careful it will remove data that are lost to you if you save the image after printing it.

1. Open your image
2. Choose Resize from the Image-Menu.
   Make a note of the file size in the top right corner, and the print size at the bottom of the resize-window.
3. Change the resolution (DPI) from 72  to 350.
   
   Notice how the file size is unchanged, but the printsize has changed.

You may if you like change the printsize instead of the DPI, in paint.net this will set the DPI to a default of 180. My recommendation is to keep the DPI at  least 300 to keep the printed image sharp and crisp on a High-Res photo paper. Read more about resizing using paint.net here.

Setting up a second (third, fourth … ) account in Outlook.

Adding several accounts to your Outlook 2010 is a simple task. Using them and switching between them is also very easy. What you DO need to decide before adding several accounts is, which will function as your main account, and should the accounts use the same PST-file (the database storing your emails) or should you use separate PST-files ?

Functionality will be the same, no matter what you choose.

In the last section, I will give my thoughts on pros and cons using one or two PST-Files.

Adding more Accounts

1. Click the FILE tab (the yellow one)
2. Click the ACCOUNTS-button and then the Account-Link popping up underneath it.
3. Follow the steps found here.

Choose between the two

1. Start writing a new Email
2. In the top left corner you find the From, To, CC-buttons.
    

   Notice that the FROM-button now has a little arrow attached to it.
   Clicking it will allow you to choose which account to send from

If you have decided to use several PST-files, you may also choose which account to use by simply highlighting the appropriate InBox in the account/folder listing, before opening a new Email Document. Outlook will choose the account corresponding to the InBox selected.

Several Signatures

If you automatically want to add signatures to your new emails, you can set Outlook to use different Signatures for different accounts. Here’s how.

1. Start a new Message
2. Click the Insert Ribbon
   
3. Click the Signature Button
4. Choose Signatures from the drop down menu
5. In the Signatures Dialogue window,  Add and design a new signature

Connecting each signature to a different account

Setting this up, may not be very intuitive to you (Another Note to the Outlook developers). But it is rather simple one you know how.

In the right hand side of the Signatures Window there are three pull-down menus titled “Choose Default Signatures”. It would be fair to assume you choose these settings while creating your Signature, but that’s not it. They have no relations to the Signature creation what so ever. They really should have been put in a separate dialog window. But that’s another discussion.

After creating all of your signatures they will appear in the pull-down menus.

1. In the first pulldown menu, choose which email account to attach a signature to
2. In the second choose which signature to use (if any) when starting a new Email
3. In the third one, choose which signature to use (if any) when replying to an email

The settings are stored immediately and you do not need to close the Signature Window until you’re all done.

Using One or Two PST-files ?

The following reflects my experience. You may experience it differently, and if so please feel free to add your own comments on the matter.

Choosing one PST-file may slow down performance when the one file get large. On the upside, you will only have one set of folders to worry about (one inbox, sent box, deleted items etc.). You will also not need a large monitor to see all inboxes at once in the folder/account listing.

Choosing two PST-files may increase your security and performance as the files will be smaller. Backup and deleting an account will be easier. You get more control over each account. On the downside, you will need a large monitor to be able to see each inbox in the folder/account listing, and you are not able to choose which folders to display in the listing except from expanding (or collapsing) the entire account folder (NOTE to the developers; add this functionality in the next Office)

The lack of security may lay in an outdated browser version, but also in the plugins, add ons and what not installed. The over eager use of plugins (as done in MSIE and Firefox) is why I personally dread most browsers. Mostly because these plugins tend to clutter my “browsing space” but also due to the lack of security.

How do you know how safe your browser experience really is ?

The short answer is: BrowserCheck By Qualys

BrowserCheck by Qualys is a free tool that allow you to test your browser and plugins for known security issues, vulnerabilities  and outdated software.  But that’s not all. BrowserCheck also help you solve your discovered problems by offering links to the new and updated software you need to fix your Browser issues.

Clicking on each topic in the results page, will show you which driver, plugin and version BrowserCheck found on your system and what action they recommend you take.

All links is directed to the vendors / developers sites so you don’t risk downloading from an unknown or unsecure site. In other words, the BrowserCheck is not scamming you to use a certain software or paid subscription.

On my first run I found that not only was my browser outdated (by a couple of days), but so were my Flash-, Pdf-, Quicktime and Java plugin. I was able to download and solve these issues within 5 minutes, and now I’m browsing even more secure than before. Now it’s your turn…

https://browsercheck.qualys.com/

If your memory is as bad as mine and you can’t even remember what you ate for lunch, it’s very handy to be able to whip out your business card with a URL pointing to a list of your most recently watched.

 

Background:

Two developments have sparked the recent explosion of Media Center packages (in my view).

The first, of course, is Windows 7 and its Windows Media Center package included for free. The second is free public access to online media databases like The Open Movie Database (TMDb).

Everybody wants a great visual catalogue system. Nobody wants to spend half their waking life typing in the details of each title.

Too much of a good thing:

Forgive me for dropping into the first person for a bit. I’m pretty sure the progress of my interest in Media Center stuff is fairly similar to that of my colleagues, but I don’t want to make a bunch of unfounded assumptions about other people.

I love collections. I still have enough cover CDs from technical magazines to fill a couple of suitcases, but before long it became apparent to me that having a lot of stuff is useless, and in fact, counter-productive because you spend more time looking for stuff than you do actually using it. What’s required is a good way to lay your hands on the item you want quickly, and so the search for a good digital library system began.

Today there are many fine products available for finding, storing, and presenting your digital collections. In addition to Windows Media Center (and the Media Browser add-on) there is XBMC, Media Portal, Boxee and more that I haven’t even had a chance to look at yet.

Each of these fine programs provides a wealth of extended functions and dazzling visual front ends, but I still struggle with that simple question “Seen any good movies lately?” I’ve got too many titles to wade through and only a large, slow application to do it with.

“Just the facts, ma’m”

There is another class of digital movie collection packages that focusrs on the basics. Collecting, organizing, and presenting the titles. It was among this group that I found what I think will turn out to be the answer to my dilemma.

(Visit AllMyMovies at http://www.bolidesoft.com/allmymovies.html)

“All My Movies” came up in a google search one day last year when I was looking for media center applications. I had a play with it, but put it back on the shelf for not being up to the 7MC standard (“7MC” is geek-speak for Windows Media Center for Windows 7) but tried it again in my search for simplicity. There is quite a lot of functionality packed into the latest AMM (ibid). The one that grabbed my attention straight away is its ability to output a list of titles in HTML (web page) format, based on a selection of titles from it’s database.

My first answer to “The Question” was to print out a list of titles from Windows Explorer in date order so the newer titles would float to the top of the list. It kinda worked, but because I made changes to the information, titles like “The Big Store” (Marx Brothers comedy from 1941) would also show up just because I had changed the listing a bit in my file system.

My friend Sean (the one who asks me “The Question” ) would then ask “What’s this one about?”, so to complete the answer it was obvious that I needed a picture – preferably the movie poster or DVD cover to jog his memory, and a link to IMDb or TMDb to provide a comprehensive answer.

Pros and Cons:

AMM has loads of features that I hope to explore in the fullness of time but, right now, it looks like a good match for my immediate requirement for an HTML movie page generator. There is an excellent selection of formats to choose from, and you can even output the information to text.

On the down side, it does cost money, while most of the other programs I’ve looked for have been free. On the flip side of that are the many ways it’s possible to reduce the cost, or even get it for free – like the “guess the movie” competetion found on their website. If you’re strapped for cash I’d try those options first.

The second drawback I’ve found is that this version doesn’t talk to TMDb (The database of choice for “Media Browser” and my personal favourite).

I wrote AMM and asked about it and got a nice note back from Max Smirnoff to tell me that he would get on to that straight away, so I’m very hopeful that before long I can capture all the required movie details simply by getting AMM to scan my movie folder.

All Up:

I’m going to stick with All My Movies for a while. It will take a bit of time to make the changes required for my design, but right now it appears to be just the kind of package I need and my guess is that it would work for anyone with a set of requirements like mine. Plus, they’re nice people to deal with. When was the last time you got an email back from Bill Gates telling you he’d get right onto your suggestion?

So – “Have I seen any good movies lately?” You tell me:

http://movies.hazen.co.nz

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Many of you out there, reading this, use virtualization software (VM-Ware, Virtual PC, Virtual-Box etc.) now and then or on a regular basis (Proof Here). Most users emulate a different Windows version on their computer for testing purposes, or to be able to run old unsupported programs (like the Windows XP Feature in Windows 7).  Some also use a virtual system to run Windows programs on their MAC.

Usually, setting up a Virtual Server involves setting up a clean installation of Windows. That of course mean that you need to install every bit of software you plan to use onto that new Virtual Playground. But No More.

Now you can Clone your already working Windows (with all software, documents and settings) into a working Virtual Server. Which you then can copy onto a DVD or Flash-Drive to run everywhere. Using any Virtualization Software you prefer, for free.

Paragon Go Virtual

First off, Paragon Go Virtual is a commercial program, but is made available free for personal use. During the course of virtualizing your Windows, you will be asked to register your copy to retrieve a serial number. This is just a formality and as long as you don’t violate the “personal usage”-clause you’re good to go.

The Scenarios

1. Continue using your old PC’s applications – enjoy your favorite applications in a virtual environment on your new computer
2. Safely test new software
3. Put your PC in your pocket, use it anywhere and anytime
4. Combining Windows and Mac. Run Your own Windows Computer safely on your MAC OS X environment.

It’s so simple, my grandma (aged 90) could do it

No matter if the computer you love to use, run Windows 2000(!), XP, Vista or 7, you can clone it. Download, install, run it, follow the Wizard, and that is basically it.

1. After you have downloaded and installed the software, run it.
2. Click the P2V Copy item of the Wizards menu
3. Select objects you want to virtualize (select any combination of  disks and partitions, files and folders)
4. If you run a multiple boot environment with different Windows Installations you need to tell which OS to convert (guest OS)
5. We also need to decide which format to use (which VM software you will use to run it)
6. The next step is to set the system variables like VM-Software version, Amount of Memory needed, How many CPUs (if more than one available) etc. If unsure, go for the default suggestions, always.
7. Paragon Go Virtual will detect which Drive formating suits your OS (NTFS, FAT, ExFat), you are of course able to change that, but I’d put trust in Paragon Go Virtual on this one. You may also allocate more or less space available for the Virtualization environment if you so choose.
8. Then choose a name and location for your cloned OS.

Once the job is done, all you need to do is to copy your VHD-file (usually the format chosen by the system) onto a disk or Flash Drive, download the proper Virtualization Software and run it.

Want to know more?

You will find everything you need to know, from different OS dependent manuals to download links at the Paragon Website. Or use the download link below.

Good Luck!

Download Page